Friday, September 23, 2011

Being Called "White Man" in Cameroon – Thinking About Race

I know I have posted about being a Chinese-American in Cameroon in the past. Today, I will delve deeper into my thought process and reflections on race.


I just finished reading Malcolm X’s autobiography, my all-time favorite book, for the sixth time. Since age 19, I have read this book periodically to gauge my opinions on race relations to see if they have changed or progressed. Growing up in LA, I am conscious of race because Los Angeles is commonly referred to as the “melting pot” of America, where the largest immigrant populations settle when they move to the U.S. Movies like “American History X” and “Crash” took place in LA. Yet even while I am aware of racial stereotypes and the jokes that revolve around them, I have never been directly discriminated against in my home city.

However, when I stayed in other states, particularly Richmond, VA, working on a political campaign, the year 2008 was the first time I had been taken aback by overt comments made by both whites and blacks. “What are you doing from Hong Kong trying to elect a black man president?” “I will not vote for a black man because…”,etc. I will not list other comments that were WAY worse. Needless to say, I became even more aware that people judge others by skin color in predominantly homogenized areas, regardless of whether the remarks made are intentional or out of ignorance.

In Cameroon and other countries around the world, the color of my skin is more obvious than even in Richmond, VA. “WHITE MAN” or “LA BLANCHE” or “NASARA” is constantly called at to Peace Corps Volunteers and expatriates walking down the street. I have friends who say they don’t mind being called “white man.” But that makes sense because some of them are Caucasian and male. Well, Carmen is neither white nor male. So with less than a year of my time here, I’m still very irritated when people shout this to me. I understand that this is a common term (in Pidgin it’s “white man woman”), or a calling out of admiration, curiosity, etc., but because of my race consciousness I still can’t let it go.

It’s like a knee-jerk reaction when someone calls me “white man.” Because I’m light, I must have money. “White man, give me money.” It’s difficult with some people to explain that I’m just a volunteer and I really don’t have money. But people look at my features and bronze-yellow skin color, and others flip to think that I’m Chinese. Lately, taxi drivers have tried to rip me off by doubling my taxi fare price when I know the correct amount. I got into an argument with a taxi driver on my way to the office because he tried to double my price, I told him I’ve been here for over one year and know the price, he made a nasty remark, then I said I’d rather walk, and he uttered a hateful comment and glared at me. I got out and found another taxi. What made him think that way towards me? Was he disrespectful because I’m “white”? Does he hate Chinese people? Was he just pissed off that day? I didn’t have time to explain my story, that I’m a volunteer trying to engage the community and not some businessperson trying to exploit Africa. He probably judged me on the color of my skin and/or my Asian features. I am still fuming. One hurtful comment a Cameroonian made to me when I first arrived in Bamenda one year ago as I walked by, “You Chinese people should get out of Cameroon and go back to China.” I certainly did not deserve THAT, seeing as how I am a representative of peace and friendship from the United States of America. It makes me believe that human nature, regardless of one’s race, can be inherently ignorant by judging appearances.

I don’t mean to generalize this opinion about everybody, of course. There are awesome white people and awesome Cameroonians and awesome Cameroonian taxi drivers (I’ve had some of the best conversations with them here) that are completely respectful to me as a Chinese-American. But I do also believe that white volunteers’ treatment and experiences are far different than minority volunteers’. Generally, Cameroonians admire the Chinese so they are usually nice to me (just like white people – look up Stuff White People Like: Asian Girls). But I have also seen how Cameroonians act towards black Americans (particularly black American women), and they definitely would not treat a white man that way.

As Malcolm X broke with the radical Nation of Islam and Elijah Muhammad, he traveled to the Middle East, Africa, and Europe. He made the pilgrimage to Mecca and learned that there are light-skinned peoples in the world that are peace-loving and celebrate brotherhood and sisterhood. I wish more Cameroonians (and Americans) would have the opportunity to travel out of their home country and meet peoples and cultures from all walks of life. Or at least tune in to BBC news. It’s a good thing PCVs serve worldwide to promote Goal 2…

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Scattered Rainy Days Encourage Scattered Thoughts

Hi everybody,

How are things? Hope the beginning of the fall season is treating you well. Right now it’s pouring rain, reminiscent of weather in DC (minus the humidity). Now that I’m in my second and last year of Peace Corps, I’ve really obtained a sense of my role here in Bamenda. I know which projects I’d like to work on, when to say no and not feel the need to appease others (I did that a lot in the beginning of my service), what foods I like, and the people I choose to surround myself with. Not too shabby, except all PCVs tell me the second year flies so fast I’ll be back home before I know it.

Goals for my second year: see this NGO fair through, continue organizational development with local NGOs in Bamenda, and creating linkages between the fair-trade certified Bamenda Handicraft store and U.S. and Western markets (will give more detail soon) and retaking French classes (my French skills have slacked. I need to be fluent in French speaking and writing).

And finally telling you all about what I do. Goals 1, 2, and 3 of Peace Corps. Bam.

I’ve been meaning to give a special shoutout to my friends who have served or are currently serving in Peace Corps worldwide. Most of them are UCLA alumni. Cheers to:
  
  • Returned PCV Zach Williams – Niger: Zach worked in the health field and taught people how to eat nutritionally in the desert region. Zach, hope you’re well. You were the one who inspired me to join Peace Corps in college when I sat down with you for the Phi Alpha Delta interview. I was very sorry to hear when the Niger program pulled out a while ago.

  • RPCV Jesse Lee – Romania; Jesse worked in the environmental protection field with local NGOs. I dig his activism. From student government to Peace Corps to the future...we've come a long way!
  • RPCV Ankit Patel – Senegal; Ankit was a Small Business Development volunteer and worked in ecotourism to promote sustainable tourism right on the beach in his village. I remember guiding you through the PC process and was secretly anxious about my own application back in LA. I’m still sad I didn’t get to visit you while you were in Dakar during your six-month extension. I was in awe of your work. Africa reunion in the future?
  • PCV Camille Aragon – St. Vincent & The Grenadines; Camille is currently working as a Youth Development volunteer in the education sector to create and manage educational programs. I hope you’re still teaching yoga at your lovely post and I’m so proud of you, old roomie!
  • PCV Monique Green – Costa Rica; Monique is a Community Development volunteer working with the Children, Family, and Youth program. We need to have more Skype dates! I love hearing about your work.
  • PCV Chris Latino – Mexico; Chris’s first post was in an insecure area earlier this year because of Mexican drug cartel violence. He had to switch posts for safety reasons and is now in another post. Chris, I think you are so courageous for staying in country and proud of you.
It’s good to know that we all go through the same ups and downs as Peace Corps volunteers no matter where we are in the world. Keep doing good work!

Sometimes I don’t know if I have topics to write about because things that may seem totally bizarre to people who have never spent time in Africa (at least West Africa) seem completely normal to me nowadays. It’s funny to see PCVs’ family and friends come into the country and gauge their reactions to certain things. For example, trash is everywhere on the streets. While the Bamenda Council does regular clean-up days each month, there is still trash out in public. When I asked a PCV friend’s mother about her impressions about Cameroon, her first response, “There’s SO much trash everywhere!” I think I’ve gotten used to flurries of activities here that something like trash doesn’t faze me…I just step over it.

I remember when I traveled to Peru with my friends Kat and Debby back in 2007. When we landed in Lima and took our first taxi ride, the three of us kept screaming at the top of our lungs at how drivers don’t follow the roads. It was SO scary. Then when we flew up to Iquitos to visit the Amazon River, cars, motorcycles, bicycles, and stray dogs were traversing on the dirt roads in a chaotic manner. I remember yelling out, “How can people survive a road here? Why aren’t there accidents every other second?!”

That was my initial reaction again when I landed in Cameroon. Especially in Bamenda, cars, taxis, buses, and motorcycles are constantly driving around and honking to get your attention. I must admit, I still jump when I hear the horns and when the motorcycles get too close to me and it takes me a while to cross the street (trust me, there are no crosswalks and stop lights). But there is a certain organization to this chaos. Like people say here, they are “just managing” the roads. Drivers look at all directions and use hand signals and yell to get to their destination. They also drive slowly (except for the young "okada" bike boys...even Cameroonians exclaim, “Those okada boys – i dey craze!”) to make sure that no one gets hits. It’s still amazing to me how things work out in a synergistic fashion. One of my Cameroonian friends asked me about traffic here in Bamenda compared to traffic in the States. I had to stop and think for a second.

I said, “Well, since I’m from LA, the capital of traffic and congestion in the U.S., there are probably higher rates of accidents in LA than in Bamenda. Drivers drive like maniacs because they love to speed and curve in and out from cars.” At least in Bamenda, people here drive slowly and for the most part drive defensively to manage the traffic. But we must also be careful – now that certain roads are tarred (paved), drivers feel the “need for speed” like they do back in LA/NYC. It’s weird to see the disparities as a developing nation adapts to developed nations’ practices. Tourists may think this is all crazy chaos, but it works.

Those are my scattered thoughts for today. Please support my work in Cameroon by donating to my NGO Fair project! I have raised $1,030 now…only $2,811.03 to go!

Visit here:


People have been asking about the deadline to donate. I am hoping to raise the full $3,841.03 by September or October, so please visit the link as soon as you can. The sooner I can raise the funds, the sooner I can assemble the planning committee to organize and market the fair.

Thanks for continuing to read my blog and I really appreciate your comments. We are together.

Carmen